Food for Thought with Alex Bielak- Global Tastes, Local Tastes

Chris M with Chef Redzepi by Tom Motz

So the last column set readers a culinary challenge. But got nary a nibble.

I’ll admit it was probably completely unfair to expect anyone to guess the mystery cover photo was of barbequed cucumbers adorned with liquid nitrogen-frozen ants (and tiny flowers?), a dish served at one of the top restaurants in the world, NOMA, in Copenhagen.

In the photos section accompanying this offering I have included several other shots taken by my friend Tom Motz who recently partook of the Nordic cuisine served up by Chef Rene Redzepi. The plating is extra-ordinary and Tom described the meal and setting as up there with anything he has eaten anywhere.

The twenty courses included such things as “Nordic coconut”, Moss and cep, Flower tarts, White cabbage and samphire, Caramelized milk and monkfish liver, Æbleskiver, lovage and parsley, Burnt leek and cod roe, Shrimp and goosefoot, Radish and yeast, Cured egg yolk, potato and elderflower, Turbot and nasturtium, and even a graphic Beef tartar and ants. (Tom said the ants offered a nice acidic contrast!)

The rarified world of restaurant food at the top level may seem a bit distant and disconnected to us here in
Hamilton/Burlington. The truth is however that the influence of world-class chefs IS being felt here.

When I recently conducted interviews at the Taste of Burlington summer launch I asked the Chefs which cookbooks they considered essential. Books by such luminaries were top of mind for many. I’ll write about some of them in a future column.

Redzepi’s book, “NOMA – Time and Place in Nordic Cuisine” was cited by Chef Daniel Pascoa of Eatalia as one of his must-have references and inspirations. That alone makes me want to visit the restaurant he works at, to see how he takes such notions and incorporates them in what he does. (See his pretty take on Yellowfin Tuna with Fennel and Orange salad, as featured in BCity Magazine, here.) I’ve increasingly seen other local chefs think out of the box and would not be surprised if they are taking their inspiration from the world’s best and coupling it with local bounty.

To be honest, I have the NOMA book on my bookshelf too, but so far all I have done is marvel at the pictures and reflect on the philosophy of regionally-sourced, seasonal ingredients and terroir that has driven the apparently truly-personable Redzepi to such heights.

While on the subject of seasonality, the Executive Chef of the Ancaster Mill, Michael Stauffer will be cooking seasonal produce from the Earth to Table Farm located in Flamborough, ON. Tickets for the August 21st 5-course dinner, preceded by cocktails and appetizers are $100 including taxes and tip. For reservations, call 905.648.1828.

I got some peaches at a roadside stand in Niagara last weekend. They were perfectly ripe by mid-week and as I dribbled juice down my chin I tried to think if there is anything better than a ripe local peach? I’d be hard pressed to think of anything else at this time of the year. Think about attending the 47th Winona Peach Festival Aug 22-24th if you want to experience peach nirvana.

Also upcoming on the Labour Day Weekend (Aug 29th – Sept 1) is “Canada’s largest ribfest” in Spencer Smith Park. It is a venerable and successful fundraiser: The Rotarians who run it have raised over $3 Million for charity to date. The fest boasts an extensive line-up of music and other activities and, as with all such events, they are in need of volunteers. If you can spare some time for a really good cause sign up here.

I recently came across an interesting-sounding “Historic Cooking Program” to be held Sept 14th at the Ireland House on Guelph line in Burlington. A limited number of participants will get to cook in the 1850s hearth kitchen using seasonal produce and recipes from the period. The program is $40 per person and will be led by Michelle Gatien, author of “The Market Cook”. For more information call 905-634-3556.

Finally, mark your calendars for the 2nd Flamborough Chili Fest, September 23rd at 4:00pm - 8:00pm, Held at the Royal Canadian Legion in Waterdown, and costing only 10$ for advance tickets, this is a fundraiser in support of the Flamborough Women's Resource Centre. I was a judge at the kick-off event last year and it was a blast with some marvellous offerings by the local restaurants.

Enjoy the rest of the summer folks!

To see additional pictures, click here. 

To see all past columns please see (and “like”) the Food for Thought Archives

Alex (Alex can be reached at fft@thehamiltonian.info or on twitter @AlexBielak)