In the last
column I wrote about Chef Daniel
Pascoa
of Eatalia saying the cookbook “NOMA
– Time and Place in Nordic Cuisine” was “one of his must-have references and
inspirations.” I also alluded to the fact that although I have this hefty
volume, I have not actually cooked anything from it, partially a reflection of
the very specific Nordic ingredients Chef Rene Redzepi sources locally and
partially because of the complexity of the preparations.
I don’t know how many cookbooks I have, but it is a lot.
This was driven home when a house stager told us to cut the number of books on
the shelves by half! Some of these books
are ones I’ve barely skimmed. Others I use for as little as a single recipe.
And yet others I’ve read cover to cover, more than once, to the point the pages
are loose or stained with sauce.
I pick cookbooks up for new ideas, time-tested recipes,
inspirational photos, insights to the minds of exciting chefs, great writing,
and techniques. If I strike the jackpot, a book might have most of those
things. If I had to choose the best, my favourite, or the last one I’d let go,
I’m not sure which I’d pick. And yet I put that
very question to a group of
chefs during the Taste of Burlington
summer launch a few weeks back. Their
responses were both familiar and surprising.
Chef
Pascoa also noted “The
French Laundry Cookbook” as another volume atop his list. The book, by
Thomas Keller, a notorious perfectionist whose restaurants draw diners to both
coasts of America, was also the top choice of Skyler Caperia of S. B. Prime, Wendel Clark's Merlin Webbe, and Downtown Bistro’s Chef Mike Lorinczi who
noted he loved the “simplicity and complexity,” something I can relate to. It’s
a beautiful coffee table book, one I have actually cooked a recipe from, albeit
probably the simplest: Parmigiano-Reggiano Crisps with Goat’s Cheese Mousse.
Simple, elegant.
On
a side note, Michael Ruhlman is a co-author along with Keller. I just finished
his enjoyable book called “Egg: A
Culinary Exploration of the World’s Most Versatile Ingredient.” It’s one of
several he’s written, some in collaboration with other top chefs, some solo.
They are a dependable bet and would be welcome on any cook’s bookshelf.
The
Purple Heather’s Manager, Gordon
Dyson and Red Canoe Bistro’s Chef
Tobias Pohl-Weary both nominated the venerable Larousse
Gastronomique (the encyclopedia of food wine and cooking). My 1961
English-language edition weighs in at over a thousand pages and the photos are
old school. It’s a bible of sorts with definitions aplenty for dish names,
ingredients, etc. for things as varied as “Porcupine” (Porc-épic - Animal whose rather fat flesh is good to
eat, especially when young) and “damascene Nigella.” (sometimes known as Venus’
hair because of its thread-like leaves, has seeds which are used in the East to
sprinkle on bread and cakes.) I wonder if an up-dated version would describe
Nigella as a Venus’ haired British Cheflebrity…?
Incidentally,
on perusing the book prior to writing this piece I was delighted to find – and
I hope resurrect – the word “Baconique” used in France to describe meals that
consisted entirely of pork!
There
were also two recommendations for the “Joy
of Cooking.” Brandon Ashby of West Plains Bistro says there is a
“lot of material and classic simple recipes,” while Craig Kowalchuck, owner of
the Water Street Cooker and Emma’s,
would like to get his mother’s copy re-bound. There is an updated version
available and even an online one, but, for the standards, almost any vintage
version can’t be beat, and this is often a go-to for me if I need a reminder
about how to do something. (I also personally like many of the offerings from
America’s Test Kitchen, which has literally developed the “Best
Recipe” for most anything.)
Chef
Wil Edsal (a real talent who has some funky dessert ideas that have earned top
honours for the Queens Head at Taste
of Burlington events) peruses an “Encyclopedia of Ethnic Cuisines.” He does so “mainly
for plating ideas.” The Ivy Bar’s John McKee
likes to browse an “Atlas of Food” from the 70s for inspiration. The Rude Native’s Chef Jay Beaudry likes “100
Great Indian Recipes compiled by Master Chefs of India:” because much of
his menu is now Asian-inspired, he finds the volume (which is on his
nightstand) very pertinent. Mitchell Lamb at the Stone House Restaurant swears by
the “Culinaria”
series of books on regional cooking.
Kowalchuk
and Doran Abra, his chef at The Cooker are also fans of Epicurious, an extensive online resource.
Others prefer magazines (Rosa Pasquale of Eatalia finds inspiration in the
pages of Canadian Living Magazine.
(They test their recipes six ways to Sunday so I find they are
ultra-dependable). One even mentioned local fliers and magazines. Steve
Lightfoot of Ye Olde Squire
noted these are “very attuned to the times and seasons.”
Several
other prominent chefs were also cited as inspirations: Meredith Read and Olivia
Balaban at Paradiso said
Montreal’s Chef Chuck Hughes’ is their man for his book “Garde
Manger.” (I’m not familiar with it but intend to be.) Pepperwood’s Mike Middlemost (who made
a delicious bacon- burger six-ways at the recent Lakeside a la Carte Rotary
Fundraiser) notes Gordon Ramsay is his professional idol so he loves any of his
cookbooks. Personally I like some of Ramsay’s short videos, available online
and as originally broadcast in the UK, as these can be great in helping get a
technique right. See for instance the one on Beef Wellington.)
Mohammad
Emami of Rayhoun, likes Jamie Oliver’s offerings. I suspect, given the
well-known mutual dislike between Ramsay and Oliver, Middlemost and Emami might
not find much common ground! In a grab-bag of other books menitoned, Chef
Monica at Rib Eye Jacks likes
“Saigon Home,” Lukas Kraczla (head Chef at Purple Heather)
relies on his 1964 “Art of
Fine Baking,” while Mark Bonin of Honey
West loves the classic “Silver
Spoon” as does my wife. By my count that is about 15 books, all of which
are worthy of space on a bookshelf. And that is not even beginning to consider
some of the books I personally consider essential!
And
taking an alternative view, one I can understand having had the pleasure of
cooking in Greece, Nisrat & Melody Naser of Melodia
claim to “never have used a cookbook.”
Finally,
as you can see I’ve tried to find links to the various books mentioned, though
sometimes recall of the exact title was hazy. If you are tentative about
developing an expensive habit that can take up significant book shelf real
estate, local libraries are a fantastic ways to get a feel for the huge range
of cookbooks out there. (See www.bpl.on.ca and www.hpl.ca.)
I love looking thru cook books for ideas. I have quite a few.
ReplyDeleteSo what's YOUR fave, Scrap?
ReplyDeleteI love love cookbooks and really need to take more time to sit down and read through my collection! My fave is still Joy of Cooking!
ReplyDelete